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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada Range, Whitney Portal Buttress, Wonderwall

Whitney Portal Buttress, Wonderwall. This route was first attempted in June, 1978 by David Black, Kim Walker and me. Walker and I returned in April, 1979 for two more unsuccessful attempts. Jack Roberts and I made a first ascent on May 18-19 with a bivouac on the wall. Start from a ledge several hundred feet right of Sartoris and climb up and left past three bolts to a Class-4 ramp leading up to a huge tree. Climb through the tree to a flake, then past two bolts to cracks leading to a bolt belay. Move left to a two-bolt ladder, then pendulum left into a huge open-book. Difficult mixed climbing, or F10, leads out of the book to a sloping stance. Climb up, then left on a dike, then up a knobby face past a bolt to a belay. Follow a water streak into a low-angle bowl, then up and right to bolt anchors. Continue up and slightly right past two bolts to a belay at the base of a dike. Follow the dike up and left, then go straight up, then right to a ledge with a bolt. The crux pitch follows right-facing corners up and right to a point where it is possible to step left (F9) and climb to a belay at the base of a chimney. Two more pitches lead to the top. Eleven pitches, 20 bolts. NCCS IV or V, F10, Al.

Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club