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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Drury Falls

Drury Falls. Drury Falls is one of the more spectacular ice climbs in the central Cascades. Located three miles west of Castle Rock in Tum-water Canyon, this single waterfall produces 900 feet of steep ice climbing. Early in March 1976 on the first ascent, the upper section of the falls (600 feet) was climbed by Paul Boving and Bob McDougall over a period of two days. The route followed the far left side, avoiding the water and ice blocks that spewed out of the runnel on the right side. The lower section of the falls was not frozen at this time and the upper portion had to be reached via a short rock traverse (F7) onto the terraces which separate the upper and lower falls. The approach to the falls from the road consists of crossing the Wenatche River and scrambling up 1800 feet in the half-mile side canyon. In January 1979 during a considerable cold spell, the entire Drury Falls was completely silenced and frozen. Bob McDougall, Steve Davis and I climbed the 300-foot lower falls (75°-85°) and then Bob and I completed the steeper and more sustained upper falls the same day. During this ascent the entire falls was well frozen and we followed the left center of the falls. (Lowe grading system: IV, WI 5.)

Steve M. Pollock, Unaffiliated