American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Gunsight (Main Summit), East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Gunsight (main summit), East Face. Gary Brill and I made this ascent on July 31. From a camp on the Blizzard-Gunsight Col we were able to circumnavigate easily to the east by way of the Blue Glacier. Choosing a line on the east face (left), we soon found ourselves on excellent granite following a series of leftward-ascending cracks, flakes and blocks (F7). After one pitch, the crux was encountered near the southeast corner: a large flake leading to a small jam-crack and then followed by a chock-stoned F8 chimney. From a semi-hanging belay (due to insufficient hardware) a dihedral-crack system was pursued. This eventually led to a rightward finger traverse (F7-F8) and the upper slabs of the peak. Crossing left over these slabs (F8) to avoid an overhanging wall enabled us to reach the southeast corner again. The route was finished along this corner. (NCCS III, F9.)

Gordy Skoog, Unaffiliated

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