American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hayes Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Mount Hayes Attempt. On May 19 John Giese, Doug Houck, Henry Bergner, Ed Nemecek and I were flown to the Susitna Glacier, southwest of Mount Hayes. We established Base Camp at 7100 feet, hoping to climb the west ridge which rises to the 12,500-foot plateau separating the north and south summits. After a week of little success, we switched our attention to the south face of the south summit. Then our previously good weather became the exception. Several days later we managed to make a summit attempt from a high camp on the south face. More difficult climbing above our fixed lines made it obvious that an additional camp would be required. Bad weather and the lack of food forced a retreat to Base Camp. No further attempts were made. Early in the expedition two members climbed P 8587 for reconnaissance purposes.

Douglas B. Holsten

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