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Asia, Pakistan, Little Tirich Mir Attempt, Owir VII

Little Tirich Mir Attempt, Owir VII. The Alpine Club of Canada expedition was composed of Murray Foubister, Dr. James Prahl, Jan Smith and me as leader; our liaison officer was Captain Abbas Raza. We left the town of Chitral on September 2 and traveled 40 miles to Nol by jeep along narrow, steep jeep trails. From Nol we went up the Barum valley on foot with porters. Base Camp was established at 11,000 feet at the junction of the North and South Barum glaciers. We relayed loads up the South Barum Glacier to a camp at 15,400 feet at the foot of the upper icefall. From there I had to descend to Base Camp because of high-altitude sickness. The others spent several days reconnoitering the south ridge of Little Tirich Mir (20,800 feet), our original objective. They abandoned the attempt because of crevasses and poor snow. The southwest ridge appeared the most likely route. On September 14 Foubister, Prahl and Smith climbed Owir VII (c. 18,500 feet) by the west ridge approached from the north. It involved a 400-foot 70° ice wall, rappelled in the dark on the descent. On the north side of the South Barum Glacier opposite the most easterly of the Troll Towers, we came across the mumified corpse of a climber with multiple fractures, presumably a Polish avalanche victim of several years ago.

A. Richard C. Butson, M.D., Alpine Club of Canada