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Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir East, East Ridge

Tirich Mir East, East Ridge. The Polish-Yugoslavian expedition to Tirich Mir East was organized by the Klub Wysokogórski in Katowice and the Planinsko Društvo in Domižale, Yugoslavia. The leader was Stanislaw Rudzinski. Of the 60 volunteers, the following were chosen: Dr. Kolodzziejczyk, B. Koisar, J. Kukuczka, J. Majchrowicz, J. Ozóg, P. Pallus, Anna T. Pietraszek, T. Piotowski, W. Wroczynski, Poles; and V. Bercic, S. Šikonja, M. Štebe, J. Šušteršic, and M. Velselko, Yugoslavs. We left Poland and went by train through Moscow to Termez on the Afghan frontier. We continued by truck to Peshawar in Pakistan and by smaller truck to Ziarat, where the loads had to be carried around a washed-out stretch of the road to Ashred. From there we drove to Nol by jeep. We continued on foot with 95 porters past Barum village to Base Camp at 12,500 feet on the northern side of the North Barum Glacier. Base Camp was set up on July 17. Reconnaissance showed that the only practical route to bypass the lower icefall was on the south side of the glacier, though it was exposed to rockfall. Camp I was at 15,100 feet. We climbed the upper icefall, above which Camp II was established at 18,000 feet. The route from Camp I to II was hazardous because of rockfall, falling séracs and technical ice climbing. The route to the east col (19,500 feet) from Camp II was easy. Camp III was at 20,675 feet above rock of UIAA Grade V difficulty, where we fixed ropes. The snow-and-ice ridge to Camp IV at 23,300 feet was not difficult with a maximum of 40°. From there Kukuczka, Wroczynski and Piotrowski set out on August 10 for the summit. The chief difficulties on the ridge were the strong wind and -20° C temperatures. At two P.M. they reached the summit of Tirich Mir East (25,233 feet), completing this new route. On the descent from Camp III the next day Kukuczka and Piotrowski made the first ascent of Bindu Gul Zom (20,800 feet) from the east col. On August 11 the Yugoslavs Štebe and Veselko and on August 13 Yugoslavs Bercic and Šušteršic along with the Pole Ozóg repeated the ascent. At the same time we two, Anna Pietraszek and Stanislaw Rudzinski, started up the South Barum Glacier to attempt the Norwegian first-ascent route, but avalanche danger and ice conditions were much worse than in 1975. We were not a strong enough party to complete this route and gave it up. On August 16 the whole team was back at Base Camp, where we dedicated a tablet attached to the largest rock which commemorated A. Jankowski, who had died near the top of Tirich Mir on the Norwegian route on August 20, 1975.

Stanislaw RudziNski and Anna T. Pietraszek, Klub Wysokogórski, Katowice, Poland