American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Hachindar Chhish Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Hachindar Chhish Attempt. A Japanese expedition of seven, led by Hiroshi Midorokawa, failed to climb Hachindar Chhish (23,500 feet) and gave up after reaching a high point of 21,650 feet on May 19. Base Camp was placed west of the mountain on the Bartar Glacier at 12,000 feet on April 27. Since a big couloir looked dangerous, they climbed the neighboring western rock buttress. Camps I, II, III, IV, V and VI were established at 13,950, 15,000, 16,500, 18,800, 20,500 and 21,325 feet on May 14, 18, 28, June 7, 13 and 18 respectively. The attempt for the summit was made by T. Kamei and Midorokawa on June 19 along the south ridge, but they soon were halted for lack of rope and because they were running low on food. During the descent the next day, Kamei fell to his death above Camp III when he was descending a fixed rope which had been cut by rockfall. A photo of the route is shown in Iwa To Yuki, N° 63, October 1978.

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