American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Spantik, South Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Spantik, South Ridge. The members of our party were Shigeru Nakamura, climbing leader, Dr. Takeshi Nonaka, Dr. Isao Satou, Masaharu Mikami, Shuetsu Yamamoto, Yoshiyuki Takenami and I as leader. We established the following camps on the unclimbed south ridge: Base Camp at 13,775 feet on June 27, Camp I at 15,200 feet on July 12, Temporary Camp II at 17,625 feet on July 19, Camp II at 18,850 feet on July 29 and Camp III at 19,825 feet on August 7. On August 8 Shigeru Nakamura and Shuetsu Yamamoto climbed to the summit (23,055 feet), crossing near the top to the southeast ridge. The other Japanese party which climbed Spantik this year took the whole southeast ridge. Our route had much avalanche danger.

Koumei Nakamura, Club of Star and Storm, Japan

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