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Asia, Pakistan, Gangchen

Gangchen. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Tohru Shibazaki made the first ascent of Gangchen (21,200 feet). Base Camp was set up on June 24 at 14,375 feet on the Hoh-Lungma Glacier, west of the peak. Camp I at 15,900 feet was placed on June 29 higher on the glacier. The original plan had been to climb the ice slopes to the Gangchen-Hikmul col, but that was threatened by avalanches. They climbed instead the rock spur north of the ice slopes to the col. The rock was very difficult and it took three weeks to prepare and fix the 3000 feet. Camp III was placed on the col at 19,450 feet on July 29. On July 30 Koji Sasaki, Yasutaka Kanamori and Ryoichi Shikama climbed past four false tops along the north snow ridge to the summit at the southern end. The next day they were followed by Ka. Sasaki, S. Takahashi and K. Mizaki. The expedition also reconnoitered Susbun Brakk. (Information from Iwa To Yuki of February, 1979.)