American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Trinity Peak, Southwest Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Trinity Peak, Southwest Peak. Our expedition was composed of Yoichi Kawasaki, Chiyoki Onodera, Yasuo Nikai, Osamu Nishihira, Dr. Akihiro Matsushita and me as leader. The name of Trinity Peak was given by an English expedition when they got a distant view of its three summits, but locally it is called Tasa Peak. It lies between the head of the Chogolinsa and the Ghandogoro glaciers. We hoped to climb it from the northwest from the Ghandogoro. After 16 days of waiting for a flight in Islamabad, we were landed in Skardu on June 16. We continued by Jeep. After seven days with 46 porters we placed Base Camp on the moraine of the Ghandogoro Glacier at 15,100 feet at the foot

of Trinity Peak. After four days of reconnaissance we decided on the ridge which led directly to the southwest summit, which would be difficult but free from avalanches. We refixed rope up the ridge like a measuring worm. The weather was bad on nine of the 25 days we climbed from June 29 to July 23, but this helped us to acclimatize by not going too fast. On July 9 Kawasaki, Onodera, Nikai and Nishahira, the attack team, set up Camp I at 17,100 feet. By July 20 Camp III had been established at 20,675 feet. On July 21 despite heavy snowfall, they set off to climb the remaining 1000 feet. They placed snow pickets every 200 feet to secure the descent and so took longer than they expected. They then climbed six pitches on rock and another of snow to the top. They were very surprised to see a higher summit to the northeast, thinking they had been on the main peak (21,982 feet). Actually they had climbed the southwest peak (21,707 feet), but did not have strength or time to go on.

Sadamasa Takahashi, Mountain Pilgrim Club, Japan

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