Nun. The Himalayan Association of Japan Expedition was composed of Masaki Susuki, Tomihiko Iimura, Hideki Azuma, Masayuki Teramoto, Tsutomu Ogawa, Tadao Ando, Taichiro Takahashi, Hiroshi Yashima and me as leader. We arrived at Tongol, the last village, on August 8. We established Base Camp on the left bank of the Sentik River at 13,500 feet. From there we climbed four hours up along the river and the Sentik Glacier to Base Camp at 16,000 feet. Fifty porters from Tangol carried gear as far as Camp I in two days. On August 11 we climbed the 1300- foot icefall and reached the snow plateau. It was a long four miles in the melting, soft snow to establish Camp II at 17,500 feet at the southern edge of the plateau. On August 16 we climbed the steep rock ridge, fixing 3250 feet of rope to place Camp III at 19,000 feet. After four hours of climbing from Camp III on August 21, we placed Camp IV at 20,350 feet on a narrow place on the west ridge. On August 22 Azuma, Takaha- shi and Nima Sherpa got to the summit (23,410 feet) at noon. Meanwhile Iimura, Teramoto and Nawang Sherpa had started from Camp III and got to the top at 1:30. On the way back to Camp II the next day, Ogawa, Susuki, Yashima and Takihashi climbed D 41 (19,072 feet; “Barmal Peak”).
Masato Oki, Himalayan Association of Japan