American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, P 6294, Chamba Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

P 6294, Chamba Region. A Japanese party from Meiji University composed of T. Sakamoto, M. Sahara and A. Sazuki climbed the second highest mountain in the region, P 6294 (20,650 feet) on September 27. The mountain is southwest of Baihali Jot. Base Camp was set up in the Kurche valley at 13,450 feet. Camps were placed at 14,925, 17,225 and 18,700 feet. Ropes were fixed to 19,850 feet. Sakamoto and Sahara climbed to the top. (Information from Iwa To Yuki, February 1979.)

Peaks in the Tos Glacier System. Our expedition climbed ten peaks between 18,000 and 21,150 feet, including three first ascents. We made the following climbs: Prow (18,230 feet) first ascent, via north side by Nicolas Groves solo on May 9 and 10; Shudra Par (c. 18,000 feet; on the ridge between Asti Par and Nalgil) first ascent, via south ridge by Groves, Michael Searle on May 13; Tara Par (19,456 feet) via west ridge by Groves on May 14; Deception Peak (19,750 feet; also called Bipseer Par) via northwest face by Groves, Searle, who then continued on over Angdu Ri (19,450 feet); Deception Peak also on May 22 via east ridge and descent via northwest face by Peter Thexton, Bernard Ingram; Dharamsura or White Sail (21,148 feet) via south ridge by Groves, Searle on May 23; Sentinel Peak (c. 18,500 feet) first ascent via southwest face above the pass from the Tos to the Chota Shigri Glacier on perfect granite with pitches of UIAA V and VI by Groves, Thexton from June 3 to 6; Morning Peak (17,600 feet) by Ingram on June 4; Roberts Peak (19,243 feet) by Ingram on June 5; and Devachan (20,300 feet) second ascent via new route, the northwest face.

Nicholas Groves, England

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