Mulkila V Attempt. In late July we left the small village of Darcha to attempt Mulkila V (20,000 feet). After a three-day approach up the Milang valley, on August 1 Base Camp was established at 13,800 feet at the foot of the Milang Glacier. Camp I was at 15,700 feet. Camp II at 17,900 feet was occupied by four members and a high-altitude porter. A summit attempt was made by Carl Moore, Mike Gallagher, Pete Janker and me. Another attempt was made on August 11 by Bill Morash and Ken Peters. Both groups were stopped less than 300 feet from the summit by loose rock and verglas on 50° slopes which offered virtually no protection.
Craig Douglas Van Hoy*, Summit Alpine Club
* Recipient of an AAC Climbing Fellowship Grant.