Kinnuar Kailash or Jharkanden and Kailash. Technically difficult Kinnuar Kailash had remained virgin despite nine attempts. Captain Kiran Kumar was selected as leader of a Western Command Expedition, with Captain Lakha Singh as deputy. Base Camp was at 15,800 feet. It was easy enough to Advanced Base and the moraine saddle between Kinnuar Kailash and Kailash. The north ridge of the former was exposed and steep and a knife-edged ridge culminated in the summit. Camp I (18,950 feet) was on the north face. A first summit attempt on June 9 was turned back by a blizzard at 20,350 feet. Finally on June 13 a party left Camp I at 8:30 A.M. and at noon reached a rock step which took them three hours. A howling storm set in but they continued as the weather cleared. Though three turned back, Kumar, Lakha Singh, Havildar Major Puran Chand and Havildar Kuchar Singh kept on up the difficult route to reach the summit (21,237 feet) at 7:30 P.M. Another team made the summit on June 16. Kailash (19,850 feet) was climbed on June 18.
Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club