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Asia, India-Garhwal, Trisul

Trisul. The Himalayan Association of Japan Garhwal Expedition was composed of Sadashige Inada, leader, Kazuo Nonaka, Fuji Tsunoda, Hideko Annaka and Keiko Tsurube, the latter two women, Setsuo Suzuki, Hideo Hatakeyama, Takao Iijima, Isato Kitagawa, Hisashi Nakaoka, Kazuo Tobita, Dr. Teruo Nojima, Kiyokazu Imai, Seiji Wada, Hiroshi Majima, Osamu Takahara, Shigeo Nishida, Kenichi Kuwabara and Hiroshi Yashima. They all had arrived at Base Camp at Tridang on the Trisul Glacier at 15,600 feet by September 19. Camp I, east of Trisul at 16,900 feet, and Camp II, southeast of the peak at 19,200 feet, were established on September 20 and 21. Kuwabara had to be evacuated by helicopter for altitude problems on September 24. On the 27th from Base Camp Hatakeyama and Suzuki climbed via the east ridge P 6100 (20,013 feet) in the ridge that extends north from Trisul. Also on September 27 other climbers slogged through new snow up the glacier south of the east ridge of Trisul and set up Camp III at 21,000 feet. At 2:30 A.M. on the 28th all set out for their respective summits. Nonoka, Iijima, Annaka, Kitagawa, Imai, Tsurube and Majima headed for the col between Trisul I and Trisul II and thence turned south to reach the summit of Trisul II (21,950 feet) at six A.M., despite crevasse problems below the col. Tsunoda, Yashima, Tobita, Nishida, Takahara and Nak- aoka set out for the col and then continued up the south ridge of Trisul I, which they claim was a new route. They got to the top (23,360 feet) at ten o’clock. (Information kindly supplied by Sadashige Inada.)