Asia, India-Garhwal, Nanda Devi East Attempt

Publication Year: 1979.

Nanda Devi East Attempt. Our expedition was composed of two women, Taeko Noda and Mitsuko Araki, and six men, Toyomichi Atsuji, Akiyoshi Saito, Minoru Tsumori, Kiyoshi Sakamaki, Nenichi Itakura and me as leader. Owing to the nuclear battery, allegedly left on Nanda Devi by the CIA, our arrival at Base Camp at 16,000 feet was delayed by the authorities until May 18. Camp I was placed on Longstaff’s Col on May 22. The route to Camp II had very rotten rock and frequent rockfall. This camp was established on May 31 at 21,000 feet. The weather became cloudy and windy. The death of the liaison officer with the Americans and illnesses of members of our party delayed our operations. One member and two Sherpas attempted to reach the summit from Camp III at 23,100 feet but they were forced back by bad weather and lack of time on June 14 at 23,950 feet, still some 500 feet below the top. A second summit attempt on June 16 was equally unsuccessful.

Mitsuharu Nishimoto, Japanese Alpine Club