Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri I, Southeast Ridge

Publication Year: 1979.

Dhaulagiri I, Southeast Ridge. The extraordinarily difficult southeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, attempted unsuccessfully by the American party in 1973, was climbed by Japanese but at a high cost in lives. The 18-man party was led by Seiko Tanaka. On September 23 Yujiro Fukasawa, Hiroshi Akuzawa and Kiyoshi Kobayashi were killed by an avalanche between Camps IV and V. Six members succeeded in getting to the summit on October 19 and 20, but on October 20 the climbing leader, Katsuyoshi Kogure, who was ferrying loads from Camp IV to Camp V fell on a fixed rope and hung there until he died. (Information from Iwa To Yuki, December 1978 and February 1979.)