Nilgiri South. Our Shinshu University Expedition was composed of Taichi Fujimatsu, Hideki Yoshida, Nobuhito Morota, Seiji Tanaka, Yoshiaki Kato and me as leader. We left Pokhara on September 5 and got to Base Camp at 13,300 feet beside the Miristi Glacier on the 16th. We placed Camp I at 15,600 feet on September 24. There is a big icefall that descends from between Nilgiri Central and Nilgiri South. We pitched Camp II at 17,900 feet in the middle of this on October 1. Camp III at 20,175 feet was established on October 8 on a plateau on the east ridge of Nilgiri South. On the 10th all of us climbed the snow face and ridge to the summit (22,438 feet), completing the first ascent.
Kazuo Mitsui, Shinshu University, Japan