American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tilicho

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Tilicho. Our expedition was led by Roger Emin and composed of Bernard Ravier, Marc Testut and me, all guides, Dr. Hervé Boissonnet and reporter Bernard Lagarrigue. We left Dumre, 100 miles from Kathmandu, with 72 porters on September 19, ascended the Marsyandi valley and got to Base Camp at 15,825 feet on October 1. We fixed the route from Base Camp to Camp I on the northwest shoulder at 20,175 feet from October 3 to 8, using 2300 feet of rope on the steeper sections. The spur presented very great difficulties. On October 9 Emin, the sirdar and I climbed to Camp I. On the 10th Emin broke trail in the deep snow as far as possible to allow me to continue fresh. He had to stop at 21,800 feet. I went on alone and reached the summit of Tilicho (23,400 feet) at 3:15 P.M. I descended to Camp I for the night. On October 11 that camp was evacuated and the fixed ropes were removed. Time was lacking for others to get to the top. We left Base Camp on the 14th and got to Dumre on October 22.

Emanuel Schmutz, Club Alpin Français

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