Himalchuli, South Face. The Yuki-To-Iwa-No-Kai Expedition made the second ascent of Himalchuli by a new route. We were Kazumi Fuji- kura, Satoru Tamura, Hisao Miyazaki, Sandaichi Omata, Shigenori Tamura, Tadashi Okamoto, Kenji Morohashi, Kazuhiro Sugeno, Dr. Tetsuo Nagatani and I as leader. We climbed the south-face route on the Dordi Khola side. We established Base Camp at 12,700 feet on March 24. The other camps were established as follows: I (16,275 feet) on April 1, II (18,750 feet) on April 8, III (20,350 feet) on April 19, IV (21,975 feet) on April 28, V (24,950 feet) on May 4, the last on the southwest ridge. Fujikura, Miyazaki and Shigenori Tamura left Camp V at 4:50 on May 6 and got to the summit (25,895 feet) at 1:16 P.M. On May 7 Omata, Okamoto, Saturo Tamura, Morohashi, Sugeno and I left Camp IV at five A.M. for the summit of the west peak. Only Sugeno and I reached the top (24,738 feet) at 2:20 P.M. The rest were unsuccessful. We were all back in Base Camp on May 10 and evacuated it on the 15th.
Yoshio Ogata, Japanese Alpine Club