American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pumori, South Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Pumori, South Ridge. Hiroshima Shudo University had already sent a four-man reconnaissance party in 1975. On the basis of their reports, we decided on Pumori by the south ridge. Our party was as follows: Soichiro Yagiri, Satoshi Tamura, Kenji Tao, Meiso Kunihiro, Tomohumi Ito and I as leader. On March 17 we flew to Lukla. On March 21 we left Lukla and moved on past Paguding, Namche, Thangboche, Periche and Lobuche, adapting ourselves gradually to the height. We set up Base Camp at 17,000 feet on April 2. Camp I was made at 19,000 feet on April 7 and Camp II at 20,350 feet on the col on April 14. Although Camp III was only at 21,325 feet up the ridge, it took us until April 27 to establish it because of the difficulties. On April 30 two members started for the summit, but Camp III was too low and the weather was awful. They were forced to turn back. The final camp, Camp IV, was established at 22,300 feet on May 2, but that night the camp was swept by a snow slide. I ordered all back to Base Camp where they took three days’ rest. On May 6 Tamura and Pemba Lama left Base Camp for the summit, with Kunihiro and Ang Pasang in support. They left Camp III early on May 8 and stood on the summit (23,442 feet) at 12:55 P.M. This was the seventh ascent of the mountain and the fourth by the south ridge. The support party had meanwhile fixed rope to 23,225 feet, which let them all descend safely to Camp III. We removed Base Camp on May 12.

Teruhiko Nagato, Japanese Alpine Club

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