South America, Chile and Argentina—Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, Fitz Roy

Publication Year: 1979.

Fitz Roy. There was conflicting information on page 585 of A.A.J., 1978. At the top of the page we reported incorrectly that an Italian expedition had climbed the north buttress of Fitz Roy. Lower on the same page Vojslav Arko correctly stated that they had climbed the American route from the southwest. There was a second Italian group on Fitz Roy in early 1978 shortly after the expedition reported above. The leader of this second party was Giuseppe Caneva and one of the eight members was Renato Casarotto, who had soloed the north face of Huascarán Norte. They attempted the north buttress. After having fixed rope up the 1500-foot rock and snow couloir, they worked their way up 800 feet of difficult rock during the next five days. On February 8 they realized that they could not succeed in the time they had available.