American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Real, Chearoco, Southwest Spur and Ancohuma, East-Northeast Spur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Chearoco, Southwest Spur and Ancohuma, East-Northeast Spur. An Italian expedition led by Cosimo Zappelli was composed of Franco Gugi- atti, Giuseppe Lanfranconi, Kiki Marmori, Marco Vitale, Angelo Gelmi and Giuseppe Ferrari. On June 26 they climbed the southwest spur of Chearoco (20,072 feet), which rises 4250 vertical feet. The first part was an ice slope of an angle up to 60°, then mixed climbing, which led to the summit mushroom of ice. From camp at 15,750 feet they climbed the ice slope, keeping left, past séracs and crevasses. They hit the rock- and-ice spur where it becomes sharper. They climbed the ice mushroom through a break at the left. The east-northeast spur of Ancohuma was climbed from July 9 to 15. The lower 2300 feet were of difficult, partially overhanging rock, which was completely fixed with rope. At the top was a 1150-foot ridge of ice. They left the rope and two metal ladders in place. Beginning at the left of the spur, they climbed four rope-lengths to the beginning of the overhangs. They turned the first of these on the left by means of a wide ice couloir before regaining the crest of the spur. Difficult cracks and dihedrals led to a huge dihedral, which they followed for three rope-lengths. Easier rock led to a final vertical section, above which the ice ridge led them to the top (21,095 feet). They descended the normal route.

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