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South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Real, East of Illampu and Ancohuma

East of Illampu and Ancohuma. The eastern cirques formed by Illampu and Ancohuma, two great 6000-meter peaks, and the vast ridge that connects them was so remote that it seemed best to share the benefits of group travel and a common Base Camp. Climbing, from easy snow climbs to granite walls at 6000 meters, attracted thirteen climbers. We traveled by bus from La Paz to Sorata. Then a remarkable old truck hauled us over the 15,700-foot Tipuani Pass to Ancoma. From there llamas and horses carried the bulk of our gear while we hiked past Cooco. At one point we saw 17 male condors circling. Base Camp at 14,800 feet was centrally situated for reaching the spectacular peaks. We enjoyed two weeks of almost perfect weather. The following is a summary of our activities. The climbs are given counter-clockwise on the map, starting at Base Camp. P 5350 (17,553 feet) and P 5200 (17,061 feet) both from east by Dennis Leahy, George Derrick on June 5; Peak III (c. 5200 meters or 17,061 feet) via east ridge by Douglas Cannalte on June 11 and by Derrick on June 15; Peak IV (c. 5500 meters (?) or 18,045 feet) from its west col by Lin Murphy, Derrick, Cannalte on June 11; P 5950 (19,521 feet; a snow dome) from east by Murphy, Cannalte on June 10; Aguja Yacuma (19,869 feet; a prominent rock needle in the col north of Illampu; four rock pitches of F9) from north by Del Young, Ellen Harpham on June 7; Ancohuma (21,086 feet) approached from east and climbed by south knife-edged ridge by Glenn Garland, Jack Miller on June 7; “Joroba de Camello” North Peak (our name; 19,865 feet) from east and South Peak (19,685 feet) from west, “Espalda” (our name; 18,701 feet) from south, and “Hancopuro” (our name; 19,029 feet) from east by Miller, Alfredo Quispe, Antonio ? (last two Bolivians) on June 5; “Taipykollo” (our name; 17,717 feet) from east on snow and ice by Garland, Cannalte, Murphy, Clayton on June 5 and from north on rock by Shirley Bridges, Marcelino Morales (Peruvian) on June 6; Hancopiti I (19,235 feet) by north couloir (steep ice) and down northeast ridge by Garland on June 5 and via northeast ridge by Cannalte, Murphy on June 5; Hancopiti III (18,931 feet) via southeast ridge by Garland on June 12; Hancopiti IV (19,090 feet) via northeast face (60° snow) by Garland on June 12; Hancopiti V (19,157 feet) via northeast face (steep ice) by Young on June 11; Hancopiti VIII (our name; 18,373 feet) via south ridge and Hancopiti IX (our name; 19,357 feet) via north ridge both by Miller on July 12; Hancopiti IX by Can- nalte on June 13; Viluyo II (17,061 feet) via north ridge and Viluyo III (17,225 feet) from Viluyo II by Cannalte on June 7; and Viluyo II by Murphy, Quispe on June 13.

Jack Miller