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South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Apolobamba, Condorini, Acamani and Other Peaks, Southern Apolobamba

Condorini, Acamani and Other Peaks, Southern Apolobamba*. Our expedition was composed of Régis Cazes, Philippe Couture, Xavier Mes- saut, Serge Renner and me. While acclimatizing, we left La Paz on July 15, headed for Huayna Potosí and climbed to 17,725 feet before returning to the dam to camp at 15,750 feet. We all felt the altitude badly. The next day we moved up to 16,750 feet and on July 17 all climbed Huayna Potosí by the normal route without incident. On July 20 we left by taxi for the southern Apolobamba. The trip was interminable, our planned destination being the town of Curva. We actually got only to Callaya, some 20 houses. There we got three horses. We left Callaya on July 22 and instead of ascending the Callaya valley, crossed two passes to come into a valley behind the mountains. We got the next day to a lake close to and just south of the village of Cañoma, called locally Chojñacota. That same afternoon we crossed the ridge east of us to the parallel valley, ascended the valley, bypassed séracs by means of a ridge and camped on the glacier. On July 24 we all climbed the east face of the peak called Condorini by the local people (18,800 feet). On July 25 we all climbed the north-northeast face of Ulla Caya (19,193 feet; named for the nearest town). The long snow slope had several false summits. This peak lies at the head of the valley, southwest of Condorini. After a rest at Base Camp on the lake, we crossed a pass on July 28 to the southwest and continued to another lake. The 29th was our longest day. We climbed east and at noon got to a 16,900-foot col where we set up camp. In the afternoon we climbed Acamani Chico (18,143 feet; local name) by its west face. We had to cross a rock band to get to a snow col, from which we followed the snow ridge to the top, turning crevasses on the south face. On July 30 we all climbed Acamani Grande (18,537 feet). We climbed the east face, which became very steep near the top. On August 1 Cazes, Messaut and I climbed Cañoma (18,307 feet). This mountain lies nearly due east of the village of Cañoma, above the valley which runs parallel to the one in which the village lies. The snow was execrably soft. We returned to La Paz on August 3.

Yves Laulan, Club Alpin Français

* Both Evelio Echevarría and the Editor find it difficult to locate the peaks mentioned here. The Acamani Sur climbed by Marks and his companions can be located, but the peaks in this account are obviously different.