American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Apolobamba, Salluyo and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Salluyo and Other Peaks. A French expedition of sixteen established Base Camp on July 12 above Lake Chocñacota at 16,100 feet. A way was reconnoitered on July 14 to Camp I south of “Flor de Roca” at 17,725 feet. On July 16 Jean-Marie Galmiche, Patrick Bourbousson, Jean- Maurice Brun and Joannès Ciocca traversed from east to west Flor de Roca (19,056 feet). On July 17 Bourbousson and Galmiche climbed Palomani Cunca (18,472 feet), while Robert and Thérèse Gaillard, Eugène Laloy, Paul Genton, Yves and Brigitte Terisse and André Masson- net climbed “Manco Capac” (18,045 feet). (This peak lies south of the mountain called “Donegani” by the Italians in 1958 and north of the one the French call “Pico de las Lagunas.”) On July 19 Galmiche and Bourbousson crossed the rock ridge that descends to the east from Flor de Roca to establish Camp II at 18,375 feet at the foot of Salluyo (19,830 feet), which they climbed on the 20th. On July 21 this pair traversed from “Tres Mujeres” over “Jorge Chávez” to Flor de Roca. Also on the 20th Bernard and Edith Genand, Ciocca, Brun, Genton and Pascal Bardy climbed Pico de las Lagunas (17,717 feet) and Ciocca, Brun and Genton traversed on to Manco Capac. On July 22 both Terisses and Massonnet ascended Salluyo, followed on July 24 by both Genands. On July 24 Galmiche and Bourbousson made the difficult climb of the south face of Flor de Roca. On July 25 Ciocca and Bardy climbed Palomani Cunca and Ciocco continued solo to Palomani (18,928 feet). Also on July 25 Genton, both Gaillards, both Terisses and Massonnet ascended the west face of ñ (18,537 feet; called CAI by the Italians in 1958), while Laloy and FanFan Berthet climbed Pico de las Lagunas. (Information kindly furnished by the leader, Bernard Genand.)

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