Trapecio, West-southwest Buttress, Cordillera Huayhuash. From July 12 to 18 our expedition from the Meda Section of the Italian Alpine Club attempted to climb the south face of Sarapo, stopping at the final schrund because the ice conditions higher up were too dangerous. The séracs were excessively unstable; we would have had to climb under them various times, there being no alternate route or possibility of a camp. From July 20 to 25 we climbed the west-southwest buttress of Trapecio, a new route. It started up a couloir on the south to reach the snowy true west- southwest ridge, which led to a rock step, some 500 feet high, and the ice summit cap. The whole route rose some 2250 feet. All eight members of the expedition reached the summit. We were Angelo Zoia, leader, Mario Conti, Enrico Mascheroni, Pino Negri, Gabriele Spinelli, Mario Terraneo, Dario Toneli and I. Dr. Mario Galluzzi also accompanied the expedition.
Emilio Borgonovo, Club Alpino ltaliano