American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá Chico

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Yerupajá Chico. Yves Astier made the second ascent of the north face solo on June 1. This was previously reported as Yerupajá Sur.

Rasac and Yerupajá Sur, West Face Direct, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our expedition was composed of Emili Civis, Lluis Belvis, Jaume Bona-ventura, Ricard Vila, Josep Ponce, Enric Ribot and me. We installed Base Camp on the shore of Jahuacocha and Camp II was in the col between Yerupajá and Rasac. On July 16 Civis and I climbed Rasac (19,817 feet), followed the next day by Vila, Ponce and Buenaventura. On the 18th Civis and I reconnoitered a direct route (first done by B. Muller’s party in 1977) on the west face of Yerupajá Sur to 18,875 feet, reaching an ice cave and fixing ropes among the séracs. We returned to Camp II. On July 19 Ponce and I left Camp II at ten P.M. and got to the ice cave of a bivouac at midnight. On the 20th we climbed an ice couloir of 55° and bivouacked in a tiny hole in the ice. On the 21st we attacked the steepest portion 65° and reached the col between the main and south peaks for a third cold (—25° C), windy bivouac. On July 22 we reached the summit of Yerupajá Sur at 9:30 A.M. The ridge up to the main summit was too dangerous. We returned to the col and made nine rappels to reach the normal ascent route. We were back in Camp II at 9:30 p.m. The route has a vertical rise of over 1000 meters.

Jordi Pons, Centre Excursionista de Catalunya

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