South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá, West Face Direct

Publication Year: 1979.

Yerupajá, West Face Direct. The Germans Ulrich Eberhard and Hans Martin Götz completed the first direct ascent of the west face of Yerupajá on June 28, 1977, some two weeks before the French ascent. (The face had been climbed before by less direct routes.) It took them half a day to climb the 30-foot-high overhanging bergschrund, on which they left a short fixed rope. The pair spent two days on the wall and climbed some 2500 vertical feet before being driven down by a storm which lasted four days. Finally they made the climb in a single ten-hour push. The other members of the expedition were B. Gumpert, F. Scheidhacker, C. Wildemann, Hanne Fauler and Gerdi Strobel.