American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Yanapaccha, Northwest Couloir, Pisco, South Face, Chacraraju Attempt and Taulliraju, South-Southeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Yanapaccha, Northwest Couloir, Pisco, South Face, Chacraraju Attempt and Taulliraju, South-Southeast Ridge. Our expedition consisted of Jean-Paul Balmat, Daniel Monaci, Hervé Thivierge and me. We chose a very early date and the weather really turned good only after May 15. We set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Llanganuco on May 3. On May 5 we climbed Yanapaccha by the northwest couloir. On May 9 and 10 we made our most difficult climb, the south face of Pisco, in 17 hours of climbing with one bivouac. On May 16 we climbed a vertical rise of 4500 feet on the south face of Chacraraju Este to reach the summit ridge to the west of the top. We bivouacked at 19,350 feet on the ridge, still 350 feet from the top. Without going to the summit, we made ten rappels on May 17 to descend. After crossing the Punta Unión, we camped at 14,750 feet below Taulliraju. On May 30 and 31 we climbed the south face of Taulliraju to the col on the south-southeast ridge and thence to the summit. The climb took 17 hours of climbing with one bivouac and was our most enjoyable ascent. These were all new routes. On June 6 and 7 Balmat and Monaci climbed Huascarán via the Garganta. All climbs were alpine-style. Technical climbing difficulties were in climbing ice flutes.

Jean Luc Fabre, Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix

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