Huandoy Norte, East Face. Del Johns and I set out together, but at the base of the east face at about 18,000 feet, he began to get nauseous and returned to a more comfortable altitude. I started climbing the 3000-foot face at five P.M. It was a typical Peruvian climb with ice flutes, loose rock and menacing cornices. I reached the summit at nine o’clock and spent the rest of the night descending the long, treacherous, involved route on the south side.
* Recipient of an AAC Mountaineering Fellowship Grant.