South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Group and Chopicalqui

Publication Year: 1979.

Huandoy Group and Chopicalqui. Our expedition was rather unusual since it was composed of my brothers José Ignacio and Rafael, my sister Juana Mary Ariz de Arteta and me with our spouses, Loli Garro, Mertxe Lizaso, José Arteta and Pili Ganuza respectively. We reached the Llanganuco lakes on July 10, accompanied by the porters, Pedro Yánac and Justo Luciano. As acclimatization on July 11 we all climbed Yanapaccha Chico (16,880 feet) and on July 14 Pisco Oeste (19,275 feet). We then placed Base Camp at the foot of the Cook Glacier on Huandoy on July 16. The rock band which must be crossed to reach the col between the Huandoys Norte, Este and Sur was continually swept by falling séracs. We consulted with a Japanese expedition which was descending after three fruitless days of trying to cross it and with an Andorran expedition. The route was just too swept by avalanches. Before leaving the place Jose Ignacio and I attempted the north ridge of Huandoy Este. From the col between Huandoy Este and Pisco we reached the ridge, but it was a series of balancing ice towers with hollow cornices. We gave up after 650 feet. We then moved to Chopicalqui which was climbed on July 23 by José Arteta, Rafael and José Ignacio Ariz and my wife Pili Ganuza.

GREGORIO ARIZ MARTÍNEZ, Federatión Vasca de Montañismo