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South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju and Other Peaks

Chacraraju and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Javier Donés, Carlos Miguel Gallego, Ignacio Hernández, Francisco Pavón, Miguel Angel Vidal and me as leader. Our average age was only 21 years. From August 18 to 21, Gallego, Hernández and Vidal made the second direct south face ascent of Chacraraju Oeste alpine-style. (First climbed by John Bouchard and Marie-Odile Meunier, 1977. See A.A.J., 1978, pages 486-7.) The 2500-foot climb was very difficult with ice walls up to 90°. On August 28 and 29 I climbed the west ridge of Huandoy Este solo. That same month this route had been tried unsuccessfully by a Swiss and two Spanish groups. The first 350 feet of rotten rock were the most difficult. It was there earlier this year that one of the Swiss was killed. Hernández and Pavón climbed Chopicalqui by its west ridge from August 27 to 29. The other climbs were all solo: Yanapaccha Oeste via the north face by Donés on August 27; Pisco Oeste via the southwest face by Donés on August 28; Pisco Este via the southwest face by me on August 27; Pisco Oeste via the southwest face on August 9 by Donés and on August 27 by Pavón.

Antonio Trabado, Club Alpino Maliciosa, Spain