South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, Northeast Ridge

Publication Year: 1979.

Huascarán, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition of 18 climbers was in the region in August, mostly in the Quebrada Llanganuco. On August 13 Montserrat Jou, Ricard Cots, Joseph Salvans and Xavier Sola climbed the normal route on Chopicalqui. Pisco Oeste was ascended from the Huandoy col on August 16 by Franz Ludwig and Jaume Badrenas and on August 20 by Joseph María Sola, Joan Llasera and Antoni Vilaseca. On August 18 Jordi Selga, Joan Vinyoli and I set out, climbing the east couloir to reach the northeast ridge of Huascarán (first climbed by Spaniards in 1961). We finally completed the climb on the summit of Huascarán on August 22. Jordi Mur and Jaume Barnils reached the top of Huascaran by the Garganta on August 20, followed by Josep María Sola, Llasera and Dr. Salvador María Cabre on the 27th.

Josep María Montfort, Centre Excursionista de Bages, Spain