South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, North Face

Publication Year: 1979.

Huascarán Norte, North Face. Xavier Fargeas and I climbed the north face of Huascarán Norte alpine-style by the 1966 Paragot route: one day of approach from the Llanganuco Lakes, four-and-a-half days on the face and one day of descent on the normal route. We acclimatized by climbing Chinchey from July 5 to 15. We began the Huascarán climb on July 20. The climb was superb despite problems. On the second day a falling rock struck and broke my shoulder; I had to finish the climb using my right arm only. On the same day we broke two of our four ice-axes. The long traverse on the upper part of the face was particularly difficult. On the last two days bad weather came in from the Amazon. It was windy and snow flowed incessantly over the rock. At the last bivouac Xavier fell 20 feet in his sleeping bag, swept off by a small avalanche. We were equipped as for winter in the Alps. We carried six days of food. It was impossible to pitch our tent anywhere for lack of platforms.

Pierre Beguin, Club Alpin Français