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South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, Northeast and Northwest Ridges

Huascarán Norte, Northeast and Northwest Ridges. A Yugoslavian expedition from Celje was led by Franc Canžek and composed of Janez Crepinšek, Mišo Culk, Francek Knez, Ivan Lesjak, Aco Pepevnik, Joše Zupan and Dr. Joše Cetina. The original objective had been Chacraraju but bad snow conditions and rockfall made them change in favor of less objectively dangerous climbs. To acclimatize Knez, Culk, Lesjak, Pepev- nik and Cetina climbed 17,000-foot Yanaraju on June 9. They then turned to the northwest ridge of Huascarán Norte, first climbed in 1974 by Italians. (See A.A.J., 1975, pp. 156-7.) The difficult climbing began at 15,750 feet. The first 4500 feet were mostly steep ice up to 60° and were threatened by avalanches. The last 1400 feet up to the summit snow ridge were of technically difficult rock and mixed climbing. On June 15 Lesjak, Knez and Culk set off from 15,750 feet alpine-style. They bivouacked at 17,400, 18,700 and 19,700 feet, reaching the summit of Huascarán Norte (21,833 feet) on June 18. Others then turned to the French route of 1973 on the northeast face and ridge. (See A.A.J., 1974, p. 174.) After a two-day approach to the start of the real climb, Crepinšek, Pepevnik and Zupan set off alpine-style on June 28. There were difficulties of UIAA Grade V+, A2. The final ice wall was from 55° to 65°. They made five bivouacs before reaching the summit. On July 2 and 3 Cetina and Lesjak climbed Pisco. (This information was kindly supplied by Franci Savenc. )