American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Evighedsfjord, West Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Evighedsfjord, West Greenland. The Göppingen Greenland Expedition was composed of Heiner Schlee, Georg Vlach, Peter Meier, Richard Niebling, Olfert Dorka, Ully Strohm, Rolf Hauff, Monika Haase, Martin Albanus, Reinhard Frick, Fred Bässler, Ilse Dölker and me as leader. We were taken by two fishing boats on July 1 by way of Kangermiut to our first Base Camp on Evighedsfjord at the foot of the Quaersup Qaqa (c. 66° N., 52'40'' W). The granite and gneiss were often rotten and objective dangers were great. Vlach was struck on the head by rockfall on one climb and had to be escorted back to Base Camp. We climbed a total of 38 peaks, of which 16 were first ascents. From the first Base Camp the climbs were as follows: west of Tâtarât Bay from south to north, P 1350, GGE (Göppingen Greenland Expedition) 11 (4429 feet) by Albanus, Dölker, Dorka on July 7 and 8; P 1280*, GGE 2 (4200 feet) by Meier, A. Schlee on July 2 and 3; P 1400*, GGE 1 (4593 feet) by Albanus, Bässler, H. Schlee, Vlach on July 2 and 3; P 1350*, GGE 10 (4429 feet) by Bässler, Meier, Niebling, Vlach on July 7 and 8; Sprang- elfjeld*, GGE 9 (5479 feet) by Bässler, Meier, Niebling, Vlach on July 5 and 6; P 1420*, GGE 4 (4659 feet) by Albanus, Dölker on July 5 and 6; P 1580*, GGE 5 (5184 feet) by Haase, Hauff, A. and H. Schlee, Strohm on July 5 and 6; P 1240*, GGE 6 (4051 feet) by H. Schlee, Strohm on July 5 and 6; to the east of the northernmost of these peaks and west of Avangnardliup Sermia (glacier), P 1350*, GGE 7 (4429 feet) and Reglen*, GGE 8 (to the north of GGE 7; 4987 feet) both by Dorka, Frick on July 5 and 6; south of Base Camp, Quaersup Qaqa*, GGE 12 on skis by Frick, A. and H. Schlee on July 7 and 8; southwest of Base Camp, P 1660, GGE 3 (5447 feet) by Dölker, Dorka, Frick, Haase, Hauff, Niebling, Strohm on July 2 and 3. We then moved Base Camp to the east to Kangiussaq Bay on July 9. The following climbs were made from there: west of the Glacier de l’Eternité, P 1880, GGE 16 (6168 feet) via southwest ridge by Meier, Niebling, Vlach on July 16; in a semi-circle northeast of Kangiussaq and north of Kangiussaq Glacier, from west to east, Mont Torrent, GGE 20 (4051 feet); P 1900; GGE 21 (6234 feet); Punta Franz, GGE 22 (6594 feet); Punta Mathilde, GGE 23 (6890 feet); and Agssuassat, GGE 24 (6956 feet), all five traversed by Dorka, Frick on July 19 and 20; Franz via northeast face (new

route) and traverse over Mathilde on July 21 by Albanus, Dölker; northeast of this group, P 1790, GE 14 (5873 feet) on skis by Albanus, Dölker, Niebling, A. Schlee on July 11 and 12; southeast of this group, P 1290*, GGE 15 (4233 feet) on skis by Dorka, Frick, Meier, Vlach on July 11 and 12; on the second ridge south of Kanglussuq Glacier and north of Sangmissoq Glacier from east to west, P 1580*, GGE 25 (5184 feet) via northeast face (55° ice) by Meier, A. Schlee on July 20; Sangmissoq, GGE 26 (6759 feet); P 1980*, GGE 27 (6496 feet); P 1800*, GGE 28 (5906 feet); P 1630*, GGE 29 (5348 feet), all five traversed via a new route, the east and west ridges, by Meier, A. Schlee on July 20 and 21; three miles south of Sangmissoq, P 1540, GGE 19 (5056 feet) and three miles due east of P 1540, P 1480, GGE (4856 feet) both on skis by Haase, Hauff, H. Schlee, Strohm on July 17; east of Umingmak Glacier and west of Sangmissoq, from north to south, Quingarssuk, GGE 17 (6260 feet) by Albanus, Dölker, Dorka, Frick on July 17; Aiguille Rose, GGE 30 (5840 feet) on skis by Hauff, H. Schlee on July 21; P 1710, GGE 31 (5611 feet) by Dorka, Frick, Haase on July 22; P 1850, GGE 38 (6069 feet) on skis by Bässler, Niebling, Vlach on July 23; peaks on ridge due south of the tongue of Sangmissoq Glacier, north to south, P 1200, GGE 13 (3937 feet) on skis by Bässler, Hauff, H. Schlee, Strohm on July 11 and 12; P 1350, GGE 1350 (4429 feet); P 1370, GGE 33 (4490 feet); P 1450, GGE 4758 feet) all three on skis by Albanus, Dorka, Dölker on July 27; P 1210, GGE 37 (3970 feet); P 1250, GGE 36 (4101 feet); and Aujassaq, GGE 35 (4167 feet) all three on skis by Meier, A. and H. Schless on July 23. Outstanding were the climbs of the northeast faces of Punta Franz and P 1580 (GGE 25) the mixed climbs as the north ridge of Sangmissoq and the complete traverse of the Sangmissoq group.

Alexander Schlee, M.D., Deutscher Alpenverein, Göttingen

 First ascent.

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