North America, Greenland, Angmagsalik Region

Publication Year: 1979.

Angmagsalik Region. A 10-man expedition of the Zasavje Mountaineering Club was led by Janez Bizjak to the area northwest of Angmassalik between Tasilaq and Sermiligaq Fjords and the Glacier de France. The expedition was in the field from July 13 to August 5. After being landed at the head of Tasilaq Fjord, the party moved up to establish Base Camp on the Sahara Snowfield. Two men remained there, while the other eight moved inland. Eleven peaks around Base Camp were climbed, none new ascents. Camp I was on the Slangen Pass, leading to the 16th of September Glacier system. The first ascents were made of P 1785 (5857 feet; UIAA Grade IV to V) north of the pass via the southeast buttress and of P 1902 (6300 feet; Grade III to IV) south of the pass via the west ridge. Camp II was at the head of the Knud Rasmussen Glacier. From there the following were climbed: north of the junction of the Knud Rasmussen and the 16th of September Glaciers: P 1600 (5250 feet; Grade V to VI—) via the east buttress, a new route; south of the junction, from west to east; P 1700 (5578 feet; Grade III) via the north ridge, a new route; P 1600 (5250 feet; Grade III to IV) via the north ridge, a first ascent; and P 1540 (5053 feet; Grade IV) via the north ridge, a first ascent; above the Habets Glacier: P 1680 (5512 feet) via both the south ice face and the southeast ridge; P 1650 (5418 feet); P 1590 (5217 feet); and P 1400 (4593 feet). Camp III was midway up the 16th of September Glacier and south of Tupliak. From there the first ascent was made of P 1515 (4971 feet), south of the camp. They also made the following ascents in the Tupilak group, from east to west: P 1200 (6890 feet; Grade IV) via the south face, a first ascent); P 1800 (5906 feet; Grade IV); west peak of Tupilak (2200 meters or 7284 feet); and P 2120 (6956 feet; Grade III) via the south ridge, a new route.

Franci Savenc, Planiska Zveza Slovenija, Yugoslavia