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North America, Greenland, Apostelens Tommelfinger and Other Peaks, Lindenows Fjord, South Greenland

Apostelens Tommelfinger and Other Peaks, Lindenows Fjord, South Greenland. The High Mountain Military Group Expedition was composed of Colonel Dr. J. Sarrat-Bournet, Major J.P. Peeters, Captain M. Rabet, Lieutenant A. Estève, Chief Adjutant A. Rey, Adjutants H. Aug- areils, R. Duprès and M. Grohens, Sergeant P. Martinez, Corporals P. Mailly and Muller, and me as leader. We were helicoptered on June 8 to Stendalen on the north shore of Lindenows Fjord, just south of the Apostelens Tommelfinger. On reconnaissance on June 10 Estève, Muller and I climbed P 1360 (4462 feet) via its east couloir and southeast ridge.

This lies northwest of Base Camp. On June 14 Estève, Rey, Augareils and I climbed by the southeast couloir the Apostelens Tommelfinger (7546 feet) in 13 hours of very difficult mixed climbing with a 4250-foot vertical rise. We descended the north couloir, rather difficult snow, to the glacier west of the NØrrearm. On June 14 Sarraz-Bournet, Grohens and Muller climbed the not difficult west couloir of P 1560 (5718 feet), northeast of Base Camp. Also that same day Peeters, Martinez and Mailly climbed the easy snow west face of an unmapped peak four kilometers north of P 1560. On June 18 a camp was established on the col north of P 1250 above the glacier west of the Nørrearm which gave access to the northeast face of the Apostelens Tommelfinger. Reconnaissance of this face began on the 19th. On June 20 Estève, Grohens and Martinez made the first ascent of P 2072 (6798 feet), a difficult climb, by the northwest face and west ridge, at first snow and on the final ridge excellent rock. On June 21 Estève, Augareils, Grohens and Martinez climbed by the east buttress the peak between P 2210 and P 2130, north of the Apostelens Tommelfinger, a 3000-foot rise on extremely difficult rock. On June 23 P 2130 (6989 feet) was climbed easily on reconnaissance. A route was pushed little by little over a two-week period up the northeast face of the Apostelens Tommelfinger, 6000 vertical feet of extremely difficult rock. The weather repeatedly interrupted operations. This attempt was finally frustrated 1000 feet from the summit by bad weather. On July 15 Rey and I left for the southeast face of the Apostelens Tommelfinger and at five P.M. on the 16th reached the summit after an extremely difficult rock climb of 4250 vertical feet. We were picked up by helicopter at Base Camp on July 20. We had had out of 43 days eight fine, sunny days, but never more than two in a row, three sunny but very windy days, 18 stormy days, three days of partially clear weather and 11 cloudy days.

Jean Claude Marnier, Captain, French Army