American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Kingnait Fiord, Baffin Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Kingnait Fiord, Baffin Island. Our expedition of seven climbers arrived at Pangnirtung on July 25 and after seven hours on July 27 arrived by boat at the head of Kingnait Fiord. The region had been explored in 1972 and 1973 by Dr. G. Cochran’s expeditions (A.A.J., 1974, pages 160-1). They had been the only ones there before 1978 when both a Seattle party and ours were again in the region. We ascended the valley to the northwest of the head of the fiord. It took five days to get our gear to Base Camp at 2500 feet at the confluence of two glaciers. We climbed 15 new routes, made three traverses and climbed nine peaks for the first time. In 29 days, nine were splendid, ten cloudy and ten rainy. We made the following ascents: Arvik1 (5100 feet) via north face to both north and south summits on August 3 by B. Constans, L. Gimbert, D. Millet, G. and M. Romain and J. Wiedmer; Allianaituq2 (6100 feet, second ascent) via southeast ridge on excellent granite and traverse to Nanuq (third ascent) both on August 17 by Constans, Gimbert, G. and M. Romain; Qilagula1 (5100 feet) via northeast face on August 15 by Constans, Gimbert, G. and M. Romain, descent via west couloir; Tuktu2 (5700 feet, second ascent) via north hanging glacier on August 7 by Constans, Gimbert, a magnificent ice climb up to 55°; Ukaliq1 (5650 feet) via central east couloir, which lies south of the big spur, on August 7 by G. and M. Romain and via east face in a succession of couloirs leading to the south ridge and traverse2 to Tuktu and Qilagula on August 7 by Millet, Wiedmer; Tiriaq1 (5800 feet) via east buttress, a fine mixed route with very difficult rock, and traverse to Dome and descent via northeast spur of Dome on August 16 by Millet, Wiedmer; Ekalu1 (5200 feet) north and south summits on August 4 by G. and M. Romain and on August 8 by Millet, C. Voidey; Quilalu1 (5300 feet) via west rock ridge on August 16 by Constans, Gimbert; Kalugaut1 (5600 feet) via west face, a fine rock climb, on August 8 by Constans, Gimbert; Amaruq1 (5700 feet) via east buttress on August 10 by Constans, Gimbert; Kitaka2 (5750 feet, second ascent) via southwest rock face on August 10 by Millet, G. and M. Romain, Wiedner. The Eskimo names are not yet official.

Gérard Romain, Club Alpin Français

1First ascent.

2New route.

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