American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Asgard, East Face, Baffin Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Asgard, East Face, Baffin Island. Ian Parsons and I repeated the 1972 route on the east face of Asgard. We climbed the 4000-foot face on July 16 to 18 in very variable weather. We were forced to bivouac in bad weather below the start of the face, which was guarded by dangerous avalanche slopes. We climbed 1500 feet of superb cracks and slabs (F8 and F9) till another storm swept in. The next day we resumed climbing on very sound granite. The summit cracks were ferocious, especially two off-width F10 cracks, which we climbed free since we carried a minimum of gear. We reached the summit snows at midnight to a glorious setting sun and a magnificent panorama of Baffin Island’s mountains. We completed the difficult descent of the Swiss route on dangerous unconsolidated snow minutes before appalling weather closed in for five continuous days.

James Fotheringham, Carlisle Mountaineering Club, England

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