American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Weasel Valley, Baffin Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Weasel Valley, Baffin Island. Our seven-man expedition was active in the Weasel Valley during July and August. Climbing throughout the night of July 27 to 28 Rob Little and I made the first ascent of an impressive rock peak, “Point Roscoe”* (4000+ feet; Reference 916,712) via its steep north ridge (UIAA V+, A2). On the 28th Pete Moffat, Chris Ross, Niel Bielby and Allan Reid climbed a fine straightforward snow peak, “Tarsuinn” (5500 feet; 023,779). Ross, Moffat and Bielby climbed “Kalouk” (012,733) and “Herald Peak” (010,715), both about 5000 feet, on the 31st. On August 1 Rob Graham and I clambered up two minor hills, “Dwarf” (3000+ feet; 918,722) and “Rubble Peak” (5000 feet; 933,731) by the south face of the “Fang,” a yellow buttress at the end of the ridge. “Nuvoolik” (5000+ feet: 010,694) was ascended by Bielby, Moffat and Ross on August 2. Moving up the valley, Rob Graham and I scaled a satellite peak of Odin by the great gully and north ridge, which we called “Balrog” (4500 feet; 905,812). In the Tinfoil Ridge area Bielby, Moffat and Ross ascended two big peaks, “Trodigal” (6000+ feet: 930,880) by its southwest rib and “Runival” (5500+ feet; 935,866) by its southwest ridge. On the way back down the valley, Reid, Moffat and I made the first recorded ascent of the great mountain mass “Ganu Mor” (5500+ feet; 869,818). Tony Simpson suffered a gashed head and skull fracture when hit by a falling rock and had to be evacuated, the Canadian Coast Guard kindly providing a helicopter for the final stage of the trip to Pangnirtung.

Graham E. Little, Scottish Mountaineering Club

* The names in quotation marks were given by the expedition and have been suggested to the Canadian authorities.

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