American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Alan Campbell, Frigate Mountain and Other Peaks, Freshfield Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Mount Alan Campbell, Frigate Mountain and Other Peaks, Freshfield Group. On July 22 Jack Cade, Geoff Dougherty, David Henley, Ron

Parker, Ernst Salzgeber and I helicoptered to a campsite some three kilometers east of the summit of Mount Alan Campbell. The following day, Ernst and I led two ropes, alternating the route finding, from a col some two kilometers west along the ridge plateau and final arête to the peak of this previously unclimbed mountain. Our descent was via the snow of the southeast face and south buttress. There was no great technical difficulty involved; however, any other routes on this peak will most certainly involve a great deal more objective danger as well as technical skill. We remained roped throughout because of the extremely frail condition of all hand and footholds on this peak. On July 24, first ascents were also made of two lesser unnamed peaks, one lying five kilometers to the west of Mount Alan Campbell and one five kilometers southwest. The following day saw the entire party move camp five kilometers westward, taking time out for the first ascent of a 9100-foot peak en route. The 26th was our most strenuous day, involving some difficult route- finding up a continuous cliff band to reach the glacier lying east of Frigate Mountain, of which we also made the first ascent in that afternoon. We continued on to reach a campsite in the headwaters of Goodfellow Creek at dusk. On the 27th we traversed westward through the parklands of Goodfellow Creek and then down into the dismal reaches of a north tributary to the Bluewater in which we found ample alder and devil’s club to dispel the illusion that such blessings are found only in the Interior Ranges. However, by late in the day, we had regained timberline some three kilometers south of Felucca Mountain. On our last day, we climbed it, making a circuit with an approach from the west to the south ridge and descent by the southeast face, thence back to camp. Finally, we exited the mountains on July 29 via Clearwater Creek, reaching the horrendous burn area of 1971 and a vehicle we had spotted in that vicinity.

William L. Putnam

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