American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, Canada, Northwest Territories—Logan Mountains, Bustle Tower, Southeast Face, Mount Sir Harrison Smith, North Buttress, Tathagata Tower, East Face, Crescent Peak, South Ridge, Logan Mountains, 1977

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1979

Bustle Tower, Southeast Face, Mount Sir Harrison Smith, North Buttress, Tathagata Tower, East Face, Crescent Peak, South Ridge, Logan Mountains1, 1977. During our stay in the Logan Mountains, we made the following first ascents: Bustle Tower, 2000 feet, via the southeast face2 on July 6 and 7, 1977 by Jacques Collaer, Jacques Ramouillet, Renzo Lorenzi, UIAA VI to VI+, A1 (We climbed the great dihedrals, avoiding the last overhanging, left-leaning one by traversing to the right to join exit gullies two rope-lengths from the top.); Crescent Peak via the principal south ridge on July 14 by Alain Grignard, Lorenzi (We climbed toward a triangular red spot on the ridge. We ascended the first 350-foot tower by a dihedral on the left side of the ridge and turned the second 150-foot tower on the left of the ridge.); Mount Sir Harrison Smith, 2300 feet, via the north buttress on July 14 to 17 by Jean Michel Haupens, Philippe Godart, UIAA VI to VI+, A3 (They climbed a mossy dihedral and traversed up and left to a square niche (first bivouac). Above the niche they kept right of the crack with poor protection to a bivouac on a tiny shelf. From the second bivouac they followed the great chimney which becomes a couloir with ice and unstable blocks of rock. At the col between the tower and the summit they continued along the ridge, pen- duluming finally back to a dihedral; Tathagata Tower via the east face on July 18 and 19 by Callaer, Lorenzi, Dr. Francis Warzée, UIAA V, A2. An attempt on the Lotus Flower Tower was stopped 500 feet from the summit by bad weather.

Renzo Lorenzi, Club Alpin Belge

1 This Belgian Party was referred to, in not too complimentary terms for their lack of proper conservation practices, on page 547 of A.A.J., 1978. Renzo Lorenzi, an Italian living in Belgium objects to the statements, saying “We made it a point of honor to try to leave the fewest possible traces of our stay (with the possible exception of the new seaplane dock). May I point out that before our departure we spent an entire day collecting trash (not only ours) in Tombstone Meadow, burning and then burying it.”

2 The Belgian route was clearly different from the Austrian route shown on Plate 60 on page 546 of A.A.J., 1978, which rises directly to the summit. The Belgian route is to the left, halfway to the ridgeline in the photo, and ends on the flat foresummit.

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