American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Queen Mary, West Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Mount Queen Mary, West Ridge. On July 30 Yoshihito Watanabe, Akiro Endo and I were landed at 6000 feet on the Hubbard Glacier, southwest of Mount King George. We started the next day up the southwest ridge but crevasses and dangerous snow conditions just below the col on the ridge turned us back. We went to the height of land between the Hubbard and Seward Glaciers and tried the mountain from there. After establishing Camp I, we had bad weather and gave up. On August 9 we placed a second Base Camp northwest of Mount Queen Mary. We reconnoitered the north side for two days but crevasses turned us back. We then attempted the west ridge. On August 12 we left Camp I at four A.M., climbed loose snow, steep rock and ice, an ice cliff and finally deep snow to reach the summit at two P.M. The next day we began the walk out and reached the Alaska Highway via the Kaskawulsh Glacier on August 19.

Shigeru Kodama, Waseda University Alpine Club, Japan

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