American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Kluane National Park, St. Elias Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Kluane National Park, St. Elias Mountains. Climbing activity has again increased in the Park. There were 20 expeditions with 87 climbers spending 2099 man-days in the Kluane area. There was a new route climbed on Mount Logan and possibly a new route on Mount St. Elias. (See above.) There were ten expeditions to Mount Logan of which seven were successful. The King Trench route was climbed by Steven Hughes, Nelson Walker, Harry J. Colvin and William John Hawkins; by Canadians Normand Lapierre, Denis Gravel, Gérard Vincent, Regis Richard, Jacques Olek and Gilbert Rioux; and by Japanese Ken Kanazawa, Joji Nakamura, Takumi Iki, Hiroichi Asakami and Fumihiro Uno. The east ridge was climbed by John A. Rehmer, Harry O. Johnson III, Jim Royce and Steven Gregory Strain; and by Jon W. Jones, Chic Scott, Trevor Jones and Don Chandler. Matthew Maytag and Dale Sturtz were killed while their party was attempting the Warbler Ridge of Mount Logan. They were believed to be the first fatalities on the mountain. Mark Davis, Brian McCullough, Philip Jones Edwards and Daniel K. Saunders unsuccessfully attempted a new route, the northwest ridge of Mount St. Elias. Jim Logan, Barry Sparks, Terry Stump and Ralph Randall Trover were unsuccessful in their attempt on Hummingbird Ridge. John Lauchlin, Robert Mitchell, Jim Elzinga and Phil Hein did not succeed on the south-southwest ridge. Czechs Milan Hofmann, Miroslav Jania, Milan Palát, Hynek Spurný and Marie Vlcek failed to climb Steele and Lucania. Roger Griffiths, Robb Preston McLaren, Jeff Creed and Chris Harris did not manage to climb the east ridge of Mount Vancouver. David Mention, Seymour House, Jack Tackle and James B. Davis, Jr. failed on the north ridge of Mount Kennedy.

Lloyd Freese, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.