American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Colorado and Wyoming, Yugoslavian-American Exchange Program

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Yugoslavian-American Exchange Program. Yugoslavian climbers, Borut Bergant and Iztok Tomanzin, visited the United States for 38 days. This was an exchange program between the American Alpine Club and the Yugoslavian Alpine Organization. (Komisija za Alpinizam). They were accompanied by Henry Barber. In Eldorado Springs Canyon they climbed Naked Edge (F11), Rosy Crucifixion (F10), Superslab (F10), Northwest Corner of Bastille (F10), T2 (F9), Werk Supp (F9). In the Black Canyon of the Gunnison they made what was probably the fifth ascent of Layton Kor’s Russian Arête. Near Aspen they did a long route on the northwest face of Capital Peak (F9) and short routes near Independence Pass like Cryogenics (F10). In Glenwood Springs Canyon Barber and Tomazin made a F11 first ascent and Bergant did a F10 first ascent with Ajax Greene. They climbed in Boulder Canyon and did the east ridge of the Maiden (F10). They climbed in the Needles area of South Dakota. They climbed McCarthy’s North Face and Hollywood and Vine on the Devils Tower. In the Bighorns with Barber and Greene, they made several new routes. In the Tetons they did the Jensen Direct Route on Symmetry Spire, the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton under bad conditions. They made the second ascent of Lots Slot in Death Canyon (F10). In the Wind River Range they climbed the Beckey route on Ambush Peak with a new direct finish. Though the weather was bad, the pair made a rapid one-day ascent of the Grand Traverse on the Diamond of Longs Peak. In some cases on the more difficult climbs, some points of aid were used.

Franci Savenc, Komisija za Alpinizam, Yugoslavia

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