American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, "Sail Pinnacle," South Face, Wind River Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

“Sail Pinnacle”, South Face, Wind River Range. This alluring pinnacle lies 1.25 miles due west of the summit of Squaretop Mountain and .4 miles northeast of P 11,530. Our route on the south face has steps and ledge-traverses angling up and west to the summit boulder. On July 3 Hal Gribble and I approached from the south of the base of the east ridge and scrambled up to the small subsidiary ridge of darker rock which angles east to the obvious grassy ledge below the dihedral. We climbed the dihedral and rock above to the large ledge. From the west end of the ledge we ascended the small face and continued to a large ledge. We traversed the airy ledge system for 50 feet to the west and climbed to the next ledge to the west. We traversed the ledge west and climbed the difficult (F8) layback ramp which leads to another broken traverse west. We climbed cracks up and west to the ridge just west of the summit to traverse to the north around the corner onto easier ground west of the mushroom-shaped summit boulder. Up this we scrambled easily from the southwest. NCCS III, F7.

John W. Gottman, Wasatch Mountain Club

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