American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Snow Canyon

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Snow Canyon. In December, 1977 Bill March and I did a new route in Snow Canyon, about 20 miles northeast of St. George. Originally Jim Knight and I had tried it in 1972. From Highway 18 near the Snow Canyon turnoff one can walk 100 yards west to the edge of the canyon and look across at the route. It takes the obvious middle buttress in the center of the largest sandstone outcrop and is about 1000 feet high. It is a recommended desert route. The best approach is from the Snow Canyon Ranger Station. A 30-minute walk through the dunes brings one to the northeast-facing wall. To the right the wall makes a huge corner.

In the spring there is a waterfall in the back, but later in the season a black streak surrounded by moss indicates the “cirque” you should be in. The climb is on the main buttress facing the Ranger Station. It is 80° for the first 200 feet and leans back to 70° for the remaining 800 feet.

Murray Toft

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.