American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Great White Throne, North Face, Zion National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1979

Great White Throne, North Face, Zion National Park. This new route, done by Danny Horton and me on April 23, 1977 in 14 hours, ascended 2200 feet from the road to the top of the hoodoos of the Great White Throne. The first 1000 feet were scrambling, starting right of the large gully below the towers on the northwest corner. The gully is seen from Angel’s Landing. We traversed west below the towers around the corner overlooking the Grotto Picnic area and worked up broken ground to the base of the large chimney. The latter is the beginning of the roped climbing (F6). From the top of the chimney we traversed three pitches east, angling up on bushy ledges, and traversed west into a dihedral. We followed a series of cracks and short ledges for two or three pitches to a steep, 50-foot jam-crack in the inside corner. Above, a rambling lead got us to the summit plateau. NCCS IV, F7, A1.

John W. Gottman, Wasatch Mountain Club

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